2026贵州乡村文化地理主题传播系列10|贵州“村咖”——把咖啡种进贵州山水里2026 Guizhou Rural Cultural Geography Theme Communication Series 10 - Guizhou "Village Coffee" - Planting Coffee in Guizhou Mountains and Rivers

2026-09-04 09:00:18 admin 2656

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这两年,贵阳市的红枫湖畔忽然“长”出了许多咖啡馆。

这些咖啡店的窗外不是城市景观,是湖、是山、是乡野。走进店里,咖啡机在吧台上隆隆作响,冰滴壶里的水珠一颗颗坠下,与周遭景色相得益彰。在天气好的傍晚,落日还会跌进湖里,把半间屋子都染成橘红。

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岑巩县桐木村,一杯制作中的咖啡 杨云/摄

坐在这样的窗前喝一杯咖啡,实在惬意。
虽然贵州的咖啡种植尚处于起步阶段,但这并不妨碍咖啡馆在这片土地上遍地开花,乡村亦然。两年多的时间,仅清镇市,乡村咖啡馆就从零增至26家,咖啡正在以一种前所未有的方式,成为贵州的一张新名片。
湖畔——蒙德里安与落日
清镇市右二村,蒙安·夕舍咖啡馆。
咖啡馆主理人王庆能第一次到右二村,是2019年夏天。他站在红枫湖边,眼前是连片的蒙德里安色系的民居,水面阔大安静,山丘低缓绵延。做了多年五星级酒店室内装饰设计的他,忽然觉得这个村子藏着一种尚未被发现的生命力。
四年后,他在这里开出了清镇第一家“村咖”。

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右二村 蒙安·夕舍/供图

右二村地处红枫湖饮用水源二级保护区,“保湖”措施对开发的要求极高,游客来此多数仅是简单观光。王庆能开始琢磨如何“不新建、不破坏”,用闲置的老房子做载体,用老旧的物件做内容。这就是蒙安·夕舍咖啡馆开设的初衷。
蒙安·夕舍由一栋闲置农房改造而成,沿用了右二村标志性的蒙德里安色系,红黄蓝白在湖畔安静地呼应着村落风貌。咖啡馆像是一个乡村待客室,游客坐下来喝一杯,顺便也看见了乡村市集上正在售卖的本地蜂蜜、笋干、刺梨干。村里人也开始走进咖啡馆享受生活,和来访的人聊天、讲红枫湖的故事。
虽说店开在乡村,但不影响王庆能对咖啡的态度。开店之前,他多次跑去云南咖啡庄园选豆,还进口埃塞俄比亚、牙买加、巴拿马、哥伦比亚、印度尼西亚等地的优质豆子。他说,乡村咖啡也要靠精品赢得客人的味蕾,精品咖啡就是要做到“可追溯”——客人可以从喝一杯咖啡到了解咖啡豆来源于哪里。

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蒙安·夕舍咖啡馆 店家/供图

这种“地域之味”的追寻,就是乡村咖啡所携带的土地基因。
开业后,蒙安·夕舍咖啡生意火爆,一天最高接待量超5000人次。王庆能把这归功于乡村的承载力——城市咖啡馆的空间大多局限于店内,而“村咖”的空间能覆盖到整个村子。客人在等单或取餐后,可以在村子里散步,沿着湖边走走,逛市集,住民宿。于是,一杯咖啡就成了打开一个村庄的钥匙。
洞中——瀑布轰鸣与丁达尔光
位于安顺市秀水村的翁布洞穴瀑布咖啡,则是将喀斯特地貌与咖啡联系起来的大胆实践。
贵州的喀斯特地貌天下闻名。亿万年来被水流冲刷出的溶洞,幽深而静谧。

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翁布洞穴瀑布咖啡 店家/供图

2025年底,一个叫介黑阿体的年轻人来到了安顺市轿子山镇秀水村,被深深吸引。介黑阿体是四川省凉山彝族自治州的95后彝族青年,起初是网络上一条关于秀水村象鼻洞的短视频,让他萌生了在这里开咖啡店的想法,实地看后更觉震撼。
2026年1月29日,翁布洞穴瀑布咖啡正式营业。项目总投资500万元,规划了50亩地,围绕5处天然洞穴建起了集咖啡体验、轻食餐饮、文创销售于一体的综合空间。

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翁布洞穴瀑布咖啡 店家/供图

走进洞穴咖啡店,四周是嶙峋的岩壁,脚下是木质的地板,阳光从洞口倾泻而下,弥漫的水雾让丁达尔光柱更显清晰。瀑布的水声从洞外传来,和咖啡机的轰隆声混在一起。都市的精致与旷野的原始,在同一个空间里相融。
“用最朴素的方式呈现最好的山水,再把咖啡‘种’在贵州的山水之间。” 介黑阿体还打算引入音乐会、周末市集等活动,让这个藏在山间的洞穴成为能让人留下来沉浸体验的旅游目的地。

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修文县香巴湖村岫XIU溶洞咖啡 袁福洪/摄

寨里——侗族大歌与刺梨美式
从安顺再往东,进入黔东南苗族侗族自治州,苗寨和侗寨渐渐多起来,鼓楼、风雨桥、吊脚楼矗立山间。
榕江县栽麻乡,大利侗寨。侗族青年杨艳芳,每天早上打开咖啡馆的门后,第一件事就是做一杯美式。这个画面充满趣味——在有着数百年历史的侗寨里,穿侗族服饰的年轻人,手拿一杯美式,一边喝一边观察萃取时间,调整研磨粗细度。

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大利侗寨 王炳真/摄

杨艳芳的咖啡馆之所以红火,与“村超”的热度关联度极大。2023年的夏天,榕江“村超”爆火,距县城约25公里的大利侗寨也跟着热闹了起来。许多看完球赛的游客直奔侗寨,在鼓楼下听侗族大歌,在寨子里闲逛。杨艳芳看到了商机,开起了咖啡馆。
这样的“混搭”在贵州已经不是新鲜事。在江口梵净山脚下,有人做出了“折耳根美式”;在西江千户苗寨,刺梨冰美式成了许多游客“必点”。刺梨的酸甜让咖啡的苦涩变得柔和,每一杯都是一场味觉的冒险,也是贵州风土人情的浓缩。

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折耳根美式 黑石咖啡/供图

咖啡没有试图取代米酒和油茶,而是以一种平行的姿态进入了侗寨的日常生活。杨艳芳没有因为卖咖啡就脱掉了侗族服饰,她的咖啡馆也没有把鼓楼和风雨桥变成怀旧的简单装饰。相反,咖啡成了一种黏合剂——它让来看村超的年轻人在侗寨找到了停下来的理由。
文化“混搭”,不是取代,而是彼此成就。
田间——稻浪陶土与米酒拿铁
贵阳市花溪区黔陶乡,因陶得名。
黔陶乡的制陶史,可以追溯到明代洪武年间。六百多年的时光里,匠人们用本地白色黏土做胎,用米糠烧成的草木灰为釉,再经一千二百度窑火淬炼,烧出的白陶青花“白如凝脂,青花灵动”。

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陶咖 店家/供图

穿过一段稻田步道,一栋白墙黛瓦的小院安静地立在那里。推开门,咖啡的焦香和陶土的气息同时扑面而来——这是“陶咖”。室内陈列的陶艺作品像一座微型博物馆,从古朴的茶器到充满设计感的咖啡杯,件件都是匠人手工打造。
“陶咖”的特别之处在于,它把非遗从展品变成了日常。你可以亲手拉一只杯子,看着它入窑,等它出窑,然后用它盛一杯咖啡。游客带走的不只是一张打卡照,还有一件自己亲手制作的陶器,以及关于这片土地的记忆。

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陶咖 店家/供图

“陶咖”在味觉上的跨界同样惊艳。例如,黔陶米酒拿铁,选用本地非遗“苗家甜米酒”搭配中深烘焙的意式拼配豆,米酒的发酵酯香和咖啡的焦糖化风味缠绕在一起,再注入冰博克牛奶,喝起来像液体版的丝绒。盛在陶土杯里,杯壁的微孔结构缓释着香气。
陶咖的出现,无疑增加了黔陶乡的吸引力,让不少人专程驱车前来。春日油菜花海、秋日稻浪翻滚,坐在陶咖的院子里喝一杯咖啡,眼前是一望无际的稻田,风从田埂上吹来,带着草木的味道,惬意无比。
山下——峰林树荫与“会客厅”
在万峰林,“村咖”又是另一种融入。
两万座山峰从平地上拔起,密密匝匝铺开去,站在高处看,大地的褶皱很是壮观。纳灰河在峰林间绕来绕去,把稻田切割成一块块的绿。三百多家民宿散落在这片褶皱里——这是贵州规模最大的民宿集群。

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兴义万峰林 刘朝富/摄

民宿多了,咖啡馆自然跟着长出来。客人住下来,早上想喝一杯咖啡;午后不想跑远,又想再来一杯;傍晚散步回来,在咖啡馆里坐坐更是不错的提议。于是咖啡馆成了民宿群的会客厅。
这种共生关系,在万峰林的多家店铺显现出效果。
上纳灰村,两棵百年古树下,“之山·树下”咖啡店借了这片阴凉安顿下来。古树的冠盖是天然的屋顶,峰林是远处的屏风,店里的桌椅散落在树影和阳光的间隙里。
稻田深处,有一间不起眼的木屋,走进去才发现台面上排着一溜精品咖啡豆,标签写着产地:埃塞俄比亚、哥伦比亚、巴拿马等。万峰林不缺风景,缺的是让人停下来的更多理由。于是咖啡机被搬进稻田中央,窗外稻浪起伏,屋里研磨声响。

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之山·树下咖啡店 店家/供图

另一棵大榕树底下,藏着“事无植研所”。这间咖啡厅的造型独特——整个建筑环绕榕树而建,外观是少数民族项圈的圆形轮廓,像是在给老树戴上一件银饰。
这种“与自然共饮”的氛围,是万峰林咖啡馆对顾客的请帖。它把精品咖啡的消费场景植入宁静秀丽的田园景观,吸引着追求品质与松弛感的消费客群。咖啡馆在这里也融入了景区“住宿+餐饮”的完整生态网络。除了咖啡馆,烘焙坊、特色餐厅、文创小店、自行车租赁等业态也纷纷入驻,相互支撑。

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事无植研所咖啡厅 店家/供图

黔西南州在2026年明确提出要培育“万峰林咖啡集群”等新消费热点。这意味着,“村咖”将被纳入地方文旅发展的整体棋局。
贵州的乡村咖啡,卖的不仅是咖啡本身。它卖的是坐在红枫湖边等一场落日,是藏在溶洞里听一回瀑布轰鸣,是在侗寨的吊脚楼下看炊烟升起,是在万峰林的树荫里享受一个下午的休闲时光。
贵州乡村咖啡,给你的不只是一杯饮料,而是一座山、一条河、一个民族的日常。
来源 《乡村地理》公众号
编辑 徐婕妤
二审 张芬
三审 陈治宽

In the past two years, many coffee shops have suddenly grown on the banks of Hongfeng Lake in Guiyang City.

The windows outside these coffee shops are not city landscapes, but lakes, mountains, and countryside. Entering the store, the coffee machine rumbled on the bar counter, and water droplets from the ice drip pot fell one by one, complementing the surrounding scenery. On a good evening, the sunset can also fall into the lake, dyeing half of the room orange red.

A cup of coffee in production in Tongmu Village, Cengong County, photographed by Yang Yun

Sitting in front of this window and having a cup of coffee is really relaxing.

Although coffee cultivation in Guizhou is still in its early stages, this does not prevent coffee shops from blooming everywhere on this land, including in rural areas. In just over two years, the number of rural cafes in Qingzhen City has increased from zero to 26, and coffee is becoming a new calling card for Guizhou in an unprecedented way.

Lakeside - Mondrian and Sunset

Meng'an Xishe Cafe, You'er Village, Qingzhen City.

The coffee shop owner Wang Qingneng first visited You'er Village in the summer of 2019. He stood by the Red Maple Lake, with a series of Mondrian colored residential buildings in front of him. The water was wide and quiet, and the hills were gentle and continuous. After years of designing interior decorations for five-star hotels, he suddenly felt that there was an undiscovered vitality hidden in this village.

Four years later, he opened the first "village caf é" in Qingzhen here.

Meng'an Xishe, You'er Village/photo provided

Right Second Village is located in the second level protection zone of Hongfeng Lake drinking water source. The "lake protection" measures have extremely high requirements for development, and most tourists come here for simple sightseeing. Wang Qingneng began to ponder how to "not build or destroy", using idle old houses as carriers and old objects as content. This is the original intention behind the establishment of Meng'an Xishe Cafe.

Meng'an Xishe was transformed from an idle farmhouse, using the iconic Mondrian color scheme of You'er Village, with red, yellow, blue, and white quietly echoing the village's style by the lake. The caf é is like a rural reception room, where tourists sit down to have a drink and also see local honey, dried bamboo shoots, and dried prickly pears being sold at the rural market. The villagers also began to walk into cafes to enjoy life, chatting with visitors and telling stories about Hongfeng Lake.

Although the store is located in the countryside, it does not affect Wang Qingneng's attitude towards coffee. Before opening the shop, he visited Yunnan coffee plantations multiple times to select beans and imported high-quality beans from Ethiopia, Jamaica, Panama, Colombia, Indonesia, and other places. He said that rural coffee also relies on boutique coffee to win customers' taste buds. Boutique coffee aims to be "traceable" - customers can learn from where coffee beans come from after drinking a cup of coffee.

Meng'an Xishe Cafe Shop/photo provided

The pursuit of this' regional flavor 'is the land gene carried by rural coffee.

After opening, the business of Meng'an Xishe Coffee was booming, with a maximum daily reception of over 5000 people. Wang Qingneng attributes this to the carrying capacity of rural areas - the space of urban cafes is mostly limited to the inside of the shops, while the space of "village cafes" can cover the entire village. After waiting for orders or picking up meals, guests can take a walk in the village, walk along the lake, visit the market, and stay at a homestay. So, a cup of coffee became the key to opening a village.

Cave - Waterfall Roar and Dindar Light

The Weng Bu Cave Waterfall Coffee, located in Xiushui Village, Anshun City, is a bold practice that connects karst landforms with coffee.

Guizhou's karst landforms are world-renowned. The cave that has been washed away by water for billions of years is deep and quiet.

Weng Bu Cave Waterfall Coffee Shop/photo provided

At the end of 2025, a young man named Jie Hei'ati arrived in Xiushui Village, Jiaozishan Town, Anshun City and was deeply attracted. Jiehei A Ti is a post-95s Yi youth from Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, Sichuan Province. Initially, it was a short video on the internet about the Elephant Trunk Cave in Xiushui Village that inspired him to open a coffee shop here. After seeing it firsthand, he was even more shocked.

On January 29, 2026, Onbu Cave Waterfall Coffee officially opened for business. The total investment of the project is 5 million yuan, with a planned area of 50 acres. A comprehensive space integrating coffee experience, light food and catering, and cultural and creative sales will be built around 5 natural caves.

Weng Bu Cave Waterfall Coffee Shop/photo provided

Walking into the cave coffee shop, surrounded by rugged rock walls and wooden floors underfoot, the sunlight poured down from the entrance, and the diffuse mist made the Dingdar pillar of light even clearer. The sound of the waterfall came from outside the cave, mixed with the rumble of the coffee machine. The refinement of the city and the primitiveness of the wilderness blend together in the same space.

Presenting the best mountains and waters in the simplest way possible, and then planting coffee among the mountains and waters of Guizhou. Jiehei A Ti also plans to introduce activities such as concerts and weekend markets, making this cave hidden in the mountains a tourist destination that allows people to stay and immerse themselves in the experience.

Xiuxiu Cave Coffee in Xiangbahu Village, Xiuwen County, photographed by Yuan Fuhong

Zhaili - Dong ethnic song and prickly pear American style

From Anshun to the east, entering the Qiandongnan Miao and Dong Autonomous Prefecture, there are gradually more Miao and Dong villages, with drum towers, wind and rain bridges, and hanging towers standing tall in the mountains.

Zhama Township, Rongjiang County, Dali Dong Village. Dong ethnic youth Yang Yanfang, the first thing she does every morning after opening the coffee shop door is to make an American style cup. This scene is full of fun - in the Dong village with hundreds of years of history, young people wearing Dong ethnic costumes are holding a cup of American style tea, drinking while observing the extraction time and adjusting the grinding thickness.

Dali Dong Village Wang Bingzhen/Photo

The reason why Yang Yanfang's coffee shop is so popular is closely related to the popularity of the "village supermarket". In the summer of 2023, the Rongjiang "Village Supermarket" exploded, and the Dali Dong Village, about 25 kilometers away from the county town, also became lively. Many tourists who finished watching the game went straight to the Dong village, listening to Dong ethnic songs under the drum tower and strolling around the village. Yang Yanfang saw the business opportunity and opened a coffee shop.

This kind of "mix and match" is not new in Guizhou. At the foot of Fanjing Mountain in Jiangkou, someone created the "folded ear root American style"; In Xijiang Qianhu Miao Village, prickly pear ice cream has become a must visit for many tourists. The sweet and sour taste of prickly pear softens the bitterness of coffee, and every cup is a taste adventure, as well as a condensed representation of Guizhou's customs and traditions.

Zhe Er Gen American Black Stone Coffee/Image provided

Coffee did not attempt to replace rice wine and oil tea, but entered the daily life of Dong villages in a parallel manner. Yang Yanfang did not take off Dong ethnic costumes just because she sold coffee, and her caf é did not turn the Drum Tower and Wind and Rain Bridge into simple nostalgic decorations. On the contrary, coffee became a kind of adhesive - it gave young people who came to see the village supermarket a reason to stop in the Dong village.

Cultural 'mixing and matching' is not about replacing, but about achieving each other.

Field - Daolang clay and rice wine latte

Qiantao Township, Huaxi District, Guiyang City, is named after pottery.

The history of pottery making in Qiantao Township can be traced back to the Hongwu period of the Ming Dynasty. For over 600 years, craftsmen have used local white clay as the base, wood ash fired from rice bran as the glaze, and then quenched in a 1200 degree kiln fire to produce white pottery and blue and white porcelain that is "as white as condensed grease, and the blue and white porcelain is agile".

Taoka Shop/Photo provided

Passing through a rice paddy path, a small courtyard with white walls and black tiles stands quietly there. Pushing open the door, the burnt aroma of coffee and the scent of clay hit me at the same time - this is' pottery coffee '. The ceramic works displayed indoors are like a miniature museum, from antique tea utensils to well-designed coffee cups, each piece is handmade by craftsmen.

The uniqueness of 'Taoka' lies in its ability to transform intangible cultural heritage from an exhibit into a daily routine. You can personally pull a cup, watch it enter the kiln, wait for it to exit the kiln, and then use it to serve a cup of coffee. Tourists not only take away a punch in photo, but also a handmade pottery and memories about this land.

Taoka Shop/Photo provided

The cross disciplinary taste of 'Tao Ka' is equally stunning. For example, the Qiantao Rice Wine Latte is made with locally sourced intangible cultural heritage "Miaojia Sweet Rice Wine" paired with medium deep roasted Italian style blended beans. The fermented ester aroma of rice wine and the caramelized flavor of coffee are intertwined, and then infused with ice cream milk, making it taste like a liquid version of velvet. Placed in a clay cup, the microporous structure on the cup wall releases the aroma slowly.

The emergence of Taoka undoubtedly increased the attractiveness of Qiantao Township, attracting many people to come by car. In spring, there is a sea of rapeseed flowers, and in autumn, the waves of rice roll. Sitting in the courtyard of Taoka, drinking a cup of coffee, the endless rice fields are in front of me. The wind blows from the field ridge, carrying the taste of plants and trees, making me extremely comfortable.

At the foot of the mountain - the shade of trees in the peak forest and the "living room"

In Wanfenglin, "village cafes" are another form of integration.

Twenty thousand mountain peaks are pulled up from the flat ground, densely spread out, and standing high, the folds of the earth are spectacular. The Nahui River winds around the peaks and forests, cutting the rice fields into green patches. More than 300 homestays are scattered in this fold - this is the largest homestay cluster in Guizhou.

Xingyi Wanfenglin Liu Chaofu/Photo

With more homestays, coffee shops naturally grow along. The guest wants to have a cup of coffee in the morning when they stay; I don't want to run far in the afternoon, but I want another cup; Taking a walk in the evening and sitting in a caf é is a great suggestion. So the coffee shop became the reception room of the homestay group.

This symbiotic relationship has shown results in multiple stores in Wanfenglin.

In Shangna Ash Village, under two century old trees, the "Zhi Shan · Shu Xia" coffee shop borrowed this shady area to settle down. The crown of the ancient tree is a natural roof, the peak forest is a distant screen, and the tables and chairs in the shop are scattered in the gaps between the tree shadows and sunlight.

In the depths of the rice paddies, there is an inconspicuous wooden house. Upon entering, one discovers a row of premium coffee beans lined up on the table, with labels indicating their origin: Ethiopia, Colombia, Panama, etc. Wanfenglin is not lacking in scenery, what it lacks is more reasons for people to stop. So the coffee machine was moved into the center of the rice field, with waves of rice rolling outside and grinding sounds inside.

Zhishan · Shuxia Coffee Shop Owner/Photo provided

Under another large banyan tree, there is a hidden "Research Institute for Unplanted Matters". The unique design of this caf é - the entire building is built around a banyan tree, with a circular outline resembling a collar of a minority ethnic group, as if putting a silver ornament on the old tree.

This atmosphere of "drinking with nature" is the invitation of Wanfenglin Cafe to customers. It embeds the consumption scene of premium coffee into the peaceful and beautiful rural landscape, attracting consumers who pursue quality and relaxation. The coffee shop has also integrated into the complete ecological network of "accommodation+catering" in the scenic area here. In addition to cafes, businesses such as bakeries, specialty restaurants, cultural and creative shops, and bicycle rentals have also settled in, supporting each other.

Shop owner/photo provided by the Institute of Botany

Qiannan Prefecture has explicitly proposed to cultivate new consumption hotspots such as the "Wanfenglin Coffee Cluster" in 2026. This means that 'village cafes' will be included in the overall game of local cultural and tourism development.

Rural coffee in Guizhou not only sells coffee itself. It sells sitting by the Red Maple Lake waiting for a sunset, hiding in a cave to listen to the roar of a waterfall, watching the smoke rise from a hanging house in a Dong village, and enjoying an afternoon of leisure time under the shade of trees in the Wanfeng Forest.

Guizhou rural coffee not only provides you with a drink, but also a mountain, a river, and the daily life of a nation.

Source: official account of Rural Geography

Editor Xu Jieyu

Second instance Zhang Fen

Third instance review by Chen Zhikuan

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